Food and Football

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Food and Football

The NFL season is back, which means eighteen weeks of regular season and another six of playoffs, all of it spent gathering around a screen and, if we are being honest, around a table. The game is the reason for the invitation. The food is the reason people show up early and stay late.

Ask a Jets or Giants fan in New Jersey how the season is going and watch how fast the conversation turns to what is on the grill. It is a coping mechanism, and a healthy one. I speak as a Chicago Bears fan, maybe the only one in the Meadowlands area,  where entire decades passed with our attention split about ninety-ten in favor of the spread. This year will be different. Ask any Bears fan….

Then there is the timing problem. A 1:00 kickoff runs straight through the afternoon and lands squarely on dinner. A 4:25 game is worse. Nobody wants to eat at 11:30 in the morning, and nobody wants to sit down at 8:30 at night, so the American solution has been to eat continuously from noon through the fourth quarter and call it a strategy.

Fine. But if you are going to graze for five hours, the food should be worth it.

The season has a menu of its own

September football still smells like charcoal. Early season means ribs, wings, grilled corn, smoky salsa, cold salads that hold up in the sun. By December, the grill is under a tarp and the answer changes: chili, baked pasta, soup, anything that comes out of a heavy pot and warms people from the inside.

Late season is a gift to the home cook, because braising is forgiving. Time does most of the work. You fire up the crock pot, you build a liquid, you walk away and watch the first half. That is not a recipe so much as a schedule.

The party tray tax

The default move is a phone call and a credit card. A supermarket platter arrives under shrink wrap, a plastic dome of cubed cheese and folded meat that costs seventy dollars and tastes like twelve. Everyone eats it. Nobody remembers it.

Now compare that to the tailgate hours you already have. Prep time is not lost time; it is the ritual. Chopping with the pregame show on in the background may be the most relaxed forty minutes of your week.

A crudité platter you cut yourself, with carrot batons the same length, radishes fanned, celery on a clean bias, peppers in even strips, and a dip you actually made from scratch, costs a fraction of the tray and looks like it came from somewhere serious. That is great knife work. That is one afternoon of practice, and it pays out every Sunday for the rest of your life.

Which raises an honest question. After three beers and a pick six, will anyone notice the julienne?

The answer is “Yes”. Maybe not consciously. Nobody is going to walk up and compliment your brunoise. They are going to say “wait, who made this,” which is the same compliment with fewer syllables.

Feeding people is the whole point

Something shifts in a room when guests realize the food was made and not bought. They slow down. They ask questions. They stand in the kitchen instead of the doorway. A plate you cooked says something a caterer cannot say for you: I thought about you before you got here.

That is the part worth chasing this season. Not the Spicy Jalapeno Doritos, and to be clear, put them out anyway, they have earned their place. But the quiet satisfaction of watching a room work its way through something you built with your hands is a better return than any snack aisle can offer.

Run a real training camp

The 6 month season can be a real training camp. Pick one skill a month and drill it:

•      September: Knife work. Onion dice, uniform vegetable cuts, a crudité with a scratch dip.

•      October: Fire. Direct versus indirect heat, signature wings and cauliflower steaks cut thick and seared hard for the guests who are not eating the wings.

•      November: The braise. Short ribs, pulled pork, and a vegetable chili with enough depth that nobody asks where the meat went.

•      December: Hosting. Timing dishes so everything lands hot at kickoff instead of at halftime.

•      January: The victory lap, if your team is lucky enough to still be playing. Playoff Sundays plus a New Year buffet, which is the same skill set stretched over a longer table.

•      February: Dessert, and this year you have no choice. Super Bowl LXI lands on February 14 at SoFi Stadium, so the biggest football day of the year is also Valentine’s Day. Chocolate pot de crème, a tart, brownies with something interesting folded in. Learn one sweet thing that travels well and you have solved two holidays with a single pan.

Most cooks can learn to break down a whole chicken in a single afternoon, and it will save money every week after that. The skills compound. The confidence compounds faster.

My team may or may not reward my optimism this year. But the people at your table will be taken care of either way, and that is a season we can all look forward to, even if your team was 1-16 and was mathematically eliminated from the playoffs in October.