Berkshire Pork | Are All Pigs Equal?

by · November 19, 2008

You may have heard of Berkshire pork, it’s on the menu of many fancy restaurants, such as Spago?s in Beverley Hills or the French Laundry in California. It is also referred to as Kurobuta – meaning black pig in Japanese (Berkshire pork is very popular in Japan). Berkshire pork is a heritage breed of pig, which was discovered over 300 years ago in Berkshire County in the United Kingdom. Berkshire pork is renowned for its richness, texture, marbling, juiciness, tenderness and overall depth of flavor. It is thought by many to be the Kobe beef of pork. It is said to have a very specific taste, not generic and bland or mild like regular pork.

It seems that there is a crucial link between a pig?s diet and the flavor of the pork. Most industrially raised pigs survive on corn and soybeans, while Berkshire pigs often eat (or should I say ?dine?) on oats, molasses, fresh vegetables and fruits. Pigs are unique because the fat that they eat is redistributed into their muscle fiber – Meaning that pigs are, literally, what they eat. So, what a pig is fed is very important to how it tastes.

I even read about a farmer that literally put this to the test. One year he fed his pigs scraps?they had a fairly bland taste. The next year he fed them Chinese food and he said they were extremely greasy and generally not very good. The next year (like he wasn?t getting the idea by now) he fed them Dunkin? Donuts and he said they were inedible?like duh…poor little piggies.

In fact, there have been loads of taste tests, studies and general research done on Berkshire pigs?they all say that Berkshire pork is genetically predisposed to producing the finest quality pork due to its shorter muscle fibers and lots of marbling, which contributes to both the flavor and the tenderness. They also say that the reason why Berkshire pork is so juicy and tender, is the lack of stress on the animal. Stress causes the meat to be dry and tough. Berkshire pigs are apparently raised in a low-stress environment. Meaning that they are usually allowed to roam where they want and they have plenty of shade to keep them cool.

This was all very interesting to me, however nowadays, I often ask myself “how much of this is just marketing”. I wondered if this “Berkshire Pork” could really be that much better for the price. A regular pork rack was $7.99 a pound, while the Berkshire pork was $12.99 a pound.

So was it better? Holy “Berkshire Pork” Batman, it was fantastic. The first bite stopped me dead in my tracks. The texture, juiciness, and all of the other stuff they said about it, was true. It really was divine.

Would I spend that kind of money every time, seeing that a 4-rack roast cost me about $35 dollars? I am not sure that I would (only because I am not rich though, as it was really delicious), but if you were to brine a regular rack, cooked it properly and most importantly, made sure that it was well rested, it would still be really good.

I do have to say though, that I think because I spent what I did on the pork, dinner seemed to more of an event, which was really nice. We talked about the pork (okay me) all day and I took great care when I cooked it which made things much more fun. So, I suppose in the end it really was worth it, especially when you think of how much it would have cost if we went out for dinner and had it.

Here, is my recipe for “Slow Roasted Pork Rack” if you are interested. It also happens to go really well with the Braised kale and Soft Polenta.

Has anyone else tried Berkshire pork, and if so, what did you think?

Ciao for now,

dawn

Discussion13 Comments

  1. Barzelay says:

    Where did you buy the pork?

  2. I purchased the pork at Armando’s Finest Quality Meats, on Granville Island, he is the best!

    However, most good butchers should be able to track it down for you.

    Good Luck

  3. Hi Dawn! Great article. I’ve read about Berkshire pork and have been meaning to give a try for some time. In Vancouver, where is it available?

  4. Hi Ben,

    See above from Dawn – comment 2.

  5. kirsten says:

    Glad to hear this pork can be found at granville at least. I tracked some down in San Fran recently and was very impressed – it truly is a different pork, almost like a different meat altogether. I have no qualms about the cost – when I can get it I certainly will! I’d love to track some down here on vancouver island so if anyone can help with that I’d be thrilled.

  6. denise says:

    A reply to Kirsten: Sloping Hills farms is in Qualicum, but I have no idea if they sell to the public. They raise much of the Berkshire pork supplied to Vancouver restaurants. Good luck!

  7. Tony says:

    Great article.
    Someone on my blog questioned how I could grill a loin rack on gas and get any flavor; they didn’t know I have half of a Berkshire pig from a local rancher! I provided this as a link, since you’ve said it all, so well!

  8. Don says:

    Joe just pointed out this blog to me, when I asked about the upcoming Pork lessons, and perhaps including info on heritage breeds of pork.
    I ‘experienced’ Berkshire pork, in of all places, a retirement residence! My wife & I were visiting her parents, and invited to dinner at their new home, the Masterpiece in Pointe Claire, QC.
    Roast Loin of Pork was on the menu, with nothing to indicate the
    the special meal to come. One bite was all it took to know this was no ordinay ‘white’ pork from the local grocery store. Flavour, texture, as my old dad would have said ‘ambrosia – food for the Gods… ‘ Dramatic yes, but it truley was…
    I asked the chef, where it could be purchased, but it seems even they have to import it from the US (Snake River Farms, Boise Idaho).
    I have gone to the ‘best’ butchers in Montreal, only to have blank looks,when I ask for it. Surely, there is void in the market to raise & sell pork of this quality in Quebec. I have been able to locate a butcher in Ontario who ‘takes’ orders, not exactly convenient, but if that what it takes, then for a special meal, I will make the trek.

  9. Billy Joe Bryant says:

    Them’s tasty.

  10. Patty says:

    Hi there,

    We just began raising berkshire pigs. Great animals to work with just had our 3rd litter this year … It has been a lot of fun raising them. Our kids took some as their 4-H projects this year. The pigs did very well considering they have not been seen in the Cariboo.

    The Berkies certainly do have a huge ‘mmmmmmm’ factor when cooked. We had one butchered for ourselves in mid-August and it was awesome. Check out our website … we have just started with them and so far 3 litters are sold out. Next year, we should have 4 sows bred so there should be more pork available. Next, July or August is when we will have more Berkshire!

    Just thought I would give you a different alternative.

    Thanks Patty

  11. marlon says:

    Hello we’ve been raising berks and we love them. Meat there’s no comparison to the berk meat, hey berks are compare to the kobe beef. So yes berk is a better meat. Ones u go berk u would never go back.
    Were located in Ft.myers Florida. We’re 100% reg aba. Visit our site http://www.mahanaimfarm.org or call us 239-601i1591.
    Thanks

  12. [...] The Berkshire  pig is in the house. Purchased from local farm, Heritage Naturals, this pork is delicious!  Here is more… [...]

  13. Hi there. We raise Berkshire pigs on our small organic farm located on Thetis Island (just 20 mins. off Vancouver Island). Although we typically sell our Berkshire pork to islanders by the side we often save one to sell as individual cuts. Our pigs are fed from our farm and their healthy diet (grains, spent wine grapes, orchard fruit and goats milk) is certainly apparent in the rich taste of the meat. If you are looking for some tasty Kurobuta pork at a very reasonable cost ($7 – 10/lb) send us an email.

    Thanks!

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